And now, fall. The trees are just starting to turn and autumn’s produce is in full flower. That includes apples, of course. We visit orchards in central Massachusetts each year to pick them right off of the trees. I seek out heirloom and other unusual varieties rather than the assortment you can already get at the supermarket. What’s the point otherwise? Why drive for an hour and tromp through an orchard only to get more red delicious and Macintosh apples?
I prefer the old guard, the varieties that you’ll only find in orchards or out in the country. I love Baldwins, Northern Spy, Roxbury and Golden Russets and other assorted fruits from our tastier past. They’re the best for baking, although Granny Smiths can hold their own, too. I prefer the tart, crunchy taste of these old apples and always end up getting more than we can possibly ever use.
Take Your PickLast weekend was no exception. We drove out to Bolton, to Nashoba Valley Winery. Nashoba is a Massachusetts fixture. They have excellent fruit wines taken from their own orchards, which they also open up to food tourists like my husband and me. They also have heirloom (or “antique”) apples which they set aside for special picking. I found out about their antique apple mailing list last weekend and immediately signed up.
We always start by taste-testing apples that have already dropped from the trees. Are they tart enough? Firm enough? Do they have a good, overall taste? Will they work in a pie or alongside pork chops? I want to know before adding them to my bag. Our testing led us to Pink Lady, a sweet-tart and very firm apple that begged for inclusion in a pie. To that we added Nova Spy, a variation on my beloved Northern Spy. The Novas were sweeter and not as crunchy as their heirloom cousins but they balanced the Pink Ladies so into the bag they went.
We ran into a winery worker on our way out of the orchard and ended up getting into a long and fascinating discussion about Nashoba’s business goals and orchard know-how. That’s where I learned about the antique apple mailing list. There were trees that were blocked off and we found out why: they were reserved for the specialty pickers, the ones who came, among other things, to find good cider apples. We also inquired after Baldwin apples, a Massachusetts heirloom and one of my absolute favorites. Yes, they had them but were holding them in reserve since the winery just started a run of Baldwin-apple wines. I was tempted to pick up a bottle, but the hordes from Boston had descended upon the wine store and I didn’t want to fight the crowds. We left for our second stop.
There’s a fantastic farm store not too far from Nashoba called Bolton Orchards. They have a lot of interesting varieties and not a few heirlooms themselves. They’re no longer on trees, alas, but apples are keepers and turnaround is fast at this time of year. I got Mutsu and Baldwin apples last year and they made excellent pies, so we collected a few of each and added some Delicata squash on our way out. I love wandering around places like that. They had apples, veggies, freshly made cider donuts, specialty charcuterie, coffee and cider. My husband had to drag me out.
After a quick stop at yet another favorite Bolton haunt for hot apple crisp with whipped cream (well, I had whipped cream), we headed back to Arlington with our loot in tow. There was another tempting farm store but I was tired by then and my husband was ready to drag me out by the hair anyway.
I started the apple baking marathon the next day. I decided to make an apple pie for a special friend at the Arlington Council on Aging (yes, I’m an old girl). The COA coordinates medical rides for Arlington seniors at a price that’s half of what Uber charges. I decided to give up driving a few years ago since I have some problems seeing at night. It stopped making economic sense to pay for a car I hardly drove. Of course, I got pemphigus the same year I got rid of the car and ended up paying through the nose for ride shares. A few years later the COA started hooking me up with volunteer drivers. I love those volunteers: they’ve been life savers. And, they’re much better company. I have lots of medical issues, not just pemphigus, so I can see doctors multiple times in one month. I’ve kept staff at the Center pretty busy. They deserve a pie, no?
Thank you, Council on AgingI also decided to give an apple crisp recipe a try. It’s been sitting around my kitchen since 1995 and I never tried it until last Sunday. I had plenty of apple varieties to choose from so I mixed and matched and came up with a rather tasty crisp which I’m happy to share with you all. I try to spread the joy to the extent that I can. So, here you go, from 1995 and the Boston Globe food section:
You’re welcome!